The Okavango Delta in Botswana is one of the most beautiful places to go for a safari. There are also many lovely camps and lodges to visit and if you want an exclusive 5-star camp, I recommend a stay at the Xaranna camp run by &Beyond.
After landing in your small plane, you are met by the &Beyond land cruisers who take you to the camp. As you get closer, you can hear singing. The staff sing to welcome us to the camp.
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The Luxury Tents at Xaranna by &Beyond
In the heart of the Okavango Delta on a private concession, Xaranna has only nine tents. I say tents, but the wooden lodges with a tented roof, and soft elegant furnishings are far from your usual tent.
Opening the door to my luxury tent I was welcomed by the gentle hum of the air-conditioning. The tent is spacious and airy with floor-to-ceiling windows looking over the lagoon.
To the left was a personal bar with a fridge containing water, soft drinks and a few choice bottles of alcohol.
Bedroom
The king-sized four-poster bed was comfortable with crisp white linen, a soft green blanket on the foot of the bed and a funky pillow with an aboriginal crocodile printed on it. Soft drapes keep out the mosquitos.
Next to the bed is a soft sofa in a fresh olive green and a desk for working, drying your hair or admiring the landscape.
Lying on the bed, the vista opens up in front of you. At first, it seems empty, but as your eyes and ears grow accustomed, you begin to hear and see the wildlife. A hornbill sits in the tree above your tent, in the distance a herd of gazelle strut by, or a warthog with its tail proudly in the air trots away.
I was lucky enough to have a herd of elephants drift past, with mothers and young elephants following closely at their heels and impala skipping in and out. They came right up to the veranda and one of the elephants had a cheeky drink from my plunge pool. It was such a privilege to be so close to them.
Bathroom
The curved wooden wall to the side of the bed hides the bathroom area.
Twin sinks, with mirrors above, were mounted on the wooden work surface. Along with usual accessories, there were little white pots with cotton buds, makeup removal pads and plasters for any blisters.
Opposite was shelving and hanging space for your clothes, shoes and suitcases. There is a bag for any laundry which is done for you within a day and complementary.
Behind the hanging space is the bathing area. A large free-standing bath looks out over the view. The indoor shower has a large head and gives a powerful shower with the water draining directly into the floor.
There are two doors in the area, one to the toilet and the other to the al fresco shower. There is nothing like being in the middle of nature and taking a shower. It is private but open to the fresh air.
Outdoors
The doors in front of the bed open out to your private veranda. There are two canvas-covered loungers under a tented area and a private plunge pool. Perfect to cool down in after the heat of the sun.
It is wise not to leave your doors open or anything lying about outside as there are monkeys in the trees who like nothing better than to create havoc.
Wifi
There is wifi available in the suites.
Extras
On the bed, there was also a pair of Swarovski Optik Companion 8×32 binoculars to use during my stay, a personalised note and a guide journal with an illustrated wildlife and vegetation checklist.
If you feel you are missing out on your exercise, there is a Slim Gym basket in your room to use. Inside the wicker basket are soft bags with the name of the kit on them. There are resistance bands, a fairy ring, an exercise mat, a “gym in a box” book of exercises, skipping ropes and dumbells.
Safety
Like most safari camps, you have to be careful walking around. The camp is not fenced and animals are free to walk through them. You are escorted to and from your tent, especially at night and in the early morning when you need to be on your guard for animals lurking in the shadows. On our second morning, while waiting for breakfast, a hyena wandered past the end of the walkway.
Eating at Xaranna
The menu for each meal is displayed on a large blackboard, with choices for meat eaters and vegetarians. Other dietary requirements are catered for too. The menus change every day to keep things nice and fresh. The menus are innovative and delicious.
The long wooden table is set for each meal under a canopy and lit by funky pastel pink and olive green lights at night.
While sometimes it feels as if you are constantly eating – pre-game drive breakfast, breakfast, lunch, high tea, sundowners then dinner – the meals are quite light but frequent.
Boma
Next to the dining area is a Boma. A large seated area surrounded by trees with a fire pit in the centre. Here you can have porridge in the morning, warming yourself in the evening, have a romantic meal à deux or watch the monkeys play.
Relaxing in the sitting area
If you want to relax throughout the day, there is an elegant open lounge area. There is comfortable semicircular seating, armchairs, a hanging chair (like a leather hammock seat) and a large driftwood table topped with glass. The soft furnishings are all in the camp’s pastel colours of olive greens, pinks and yellow accents.
Jetty
Leading from the main guest area out into the lagoon is the jetty. Used for the mokoro (traditional canoes), boat cruises and fishing expeditions.
Safaris at Xaranna
During my two-night stay, we went out on safari three times; an evening safari drive, a morning walking safari and a late afternoon safari drive. Each safari was different.
We arrived at the camp in the early afternoon, and after lunch, we retired to our rooms for a siesta. Following a High Tea at 4.30 pm, we headed out on our first safari at Xaranna.
Within minutes we saw impalas, a grey-headed kingfisher and an African Fish-Eagle. Later on, we came across 2 male lions who sauntered past us as if we weren’t even there. They posed for us, lying down and taking in the breeze.
After our sundowners, we headed back to camp for our supper, still scanning for more animals.
A walking safari is quite different. We were driven to an open scrub area, and, while still looking for larger animals, we concentrated on the flora and the smaller creatures.
We came across an innocuous hole in the ground which turned out to be the home of an ant lion. They burrow into the ground and pounce on any prey that disturbs their nest.
Our walk was rewarded when we saw the Xaranna jeeps in the distance. When we arrived a beautiful breakfast had been set up for us overlooking a waterhole.
The waterhole was conspicuously empty until we saw a male lion slowly wander down to quench his thirst.
On our way back to the camp, we came across a group of eight lions of shading themselves under a wooden bridge. They were perfectly happy to lie there while we snapped away with our cameras and phones.
Watching the hippos bathing as the purples and oranges streaked the sky was one of the highlights of the evening safari drive. We had passed zebra, more impala, elephants and giraffes on the way, but had our sundowners watching the hippos.
As the concession that Xaranna sits in is so large, we did not see any other safari vehicles. It felt as if the animals were there just for us.
Animals – what might you see on a Xaranna Safari
Each time you go out on a safari drive you see something new. There is no animal or bird sighting that can be guaranteed, apart from maybe the impala who seem to be everywhere. You need to be patient with your trackers and guides. They use their knowledge of tracks, scents and the animals’ habits to try to locate the best wild animals for you.
You may be disappointed if you want to tick off the Big Five – lions, rhinos, leopards, African elephants, and water buffalo – rhinos and leopards are notoriously difficult to spot. There are plenty of other animals to see.
During my safari drives, we saw lions, elephants, kudu, impala, gazelle, water buffalo, warthogs, baboons, tiny ant lions, wildebeest, giraffe, hippos, zebra as well as a beautiful leopard who stalked out of the grass and crossed in front of us.
I love taking photos of birds and one of my all-time favourite birds the purple-breasted roller, streak across the sky in a blur of turquoise, purple, pink and green.
The Scenery
The view, landscapes, vistas, sunrises and sunsets, all are magical in the Okovango Delta and particularly at Xaranna. The mornings are golden and in the evenings the skys are lit up by red, orange, pink and purple.
Extras
Massages
A Healing Earth massage is available either in your room or the tented suite sala.
&Beyond Safari Shop
An &Beyond Safari Shop sells a range of safari clothing, gifts, jewellery and souvenirs for you to take home with you.
Included in your stay at Xaranna
Your stay at the camp includes the following:
- Your accommodation
- Three freshly cooked meals daily
- Soft drinks, house wines, local brand spirits and beers, teas and coffees and refreshments on the game drives
- Safari activities including game drives, walking safaris, photography, stargazing and birding and seasonally mokoro adventures, motorised boat cruises, and catch-and-release fishing – these depend on the water levels and weather patterns and cannot be guaranteed.
- One complimentary pair of Swarovski Optik Companion 8×32 binoculars per room to share during your stay
- Guides’ Journal with illustrated wildlife and vegetation checklist
- Area map with illustrated Star Birds checklist
- Laundry (same day)
- Emergency medical evacuation insurance
- VAT
- Transfers to and from the lodge airstrip and park fees
Not included in your stay at Xaranna
Your stay at the camp does not include the following:
- Transport to and from the camp
- Administration fee
- Telephone calls
- Safari Shop purchases
- Gratuities to staff members
- All items of a personal nature
- Champagne, cognacs, fine wines, premium brand spirits and cigars
- Private vehicle (available at an additional cost)
- Landing fees
- Travel Insurance
Final Thoughts
I have stayed at many lodges and camps while on safari, and I found the services, amenities and staff at Xaranna among the best I have ever experienced.
Xaranna by &Beyond – Essential Details
To book your trip to Xaranna, either contact a specialised Africa safari specialist or &Beyond direct.
Disclosure: I was hosted by &Beyond, in association with the Botswana Tourism Organisation, however, all views, opinions and photos are my own and remain the copyright of The Silver Nomad.
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Use these Botswana Travel Tips to plan your adventure!
- Plan your trip with these Botswana Travel Guides.
- Get the best deals on flights with Skyscanner.
- Find the perfect place to stay in Botswana on Booking.com.
- Explore more about Botswana with local experiences.
- Buy your e-sim before you go with Airalo.
- Take your own portable wifi with you
- Don’t forget to arrange your travel insurance.
Wow, Xaranna Camp looks like the ultimate luxury safari experience! Thanks for the detailed and captivating description of the camp and its amenities. Your insights into the unique features and safari activities make it even more enticing. Keep up the fantastic work!
Thank you, it was an amazing experience.